How do I Get the Water Heater out?! Mainship 390

New 6 gallon, 1500w, like-for-like replacement.

13-3/4” is the critical number.

Two 2×4” cut to length, at an angle on one end.

A “Fine Adjustment Persuader” is needed to force the the two 2×4-s into position, to achieve the magic 13-3/4” clearance.

With both 2×4-s pried into position the old heater came out easily.

Notice: I screwed a few oak “sliders” (countersinked flathead s/s crews) to ensure an air gap existed under the new heater. (Reduces corrosion if moisture shows up.)

Looking down on the business end of the installed new water heater: power, hot (out), cold (in), engine coolant (in & out), status indicators wiring, drain hose, pressure relief valve.

The fitting I found on the cold water supply to this tank had a check valve installed; reportedly this is common on boats and RV-s. The hot fitting was not a check valve.

No brass or bronze fittings should come in contact with aluminum as galvanic corrosion is likely.

(The factory-installed pressure relief valve must have some type of barrier to prevent the disimmilar metals from contacting each other…teflon tape = adequate?)

The atypical type of plastic water supply fittings on the Mainships depend on a ferrule to fit into these fittings. So care to be able to reuse everything is called for.

Nearly done, a view from the doorway to this stateroom.

A moisture sensor & alarm, along with a desiccant dryer finishes the job in this space.

Blue LED is wired to the 1500w heating element; it gives its status. Thermometer shows water temp in the tank, whether from engine running or electric power. (These will be permanently mounted in the galley.)

This lets us know if it is ready to take a shower or do the dishes!