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Well, we have had four fresh water system pumps in as many years aboard Shellerina. (( Three different manufacturers too! ShurFlo, Johnson, West Marine. ))
West now stocks Jabsco, so our newest #4 is a Jabsco. All of them are 4 GPM, the top PSI setting varies between them from 40 to 60 psi for each of them. Personally, I prefer the 60 psi units when doing the dishes!
Guess what, my analysis is that the pump itself is NOT what fails. What fails is the “tiny” pressure switch mounted to the top of these expensive +/- $200-$250 pumps.
SO, before we push off for points north this weekend, I will be buying a well pump pressure switch (with plumbing fittings) to plumb it up for our NEXT fresh water failure!!!
![](https://shellerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/img_5531-1.jpg?w=1024)
The analysis of isolating the failure mode to the tiny pressure switches atop all the common fresh water system pumps sold for RVs and boats, is simply by cutting the “+” (red or orange typ) wire between the switch and the pump and giving the pump housing 12vdc. My experience is the pump itself will run fine if I bypass its tiny switch.
Related topic & link:
I am a big believer in adding an accumulator tank on the down stream side of the pump.
https://shellerina.com/2022/12/04/todays-project-larger-accumulator-tank/
Formula is one manufacturer of express cruisers who puts small 1 QT accumulator tanks on their new boats as standard equipment. But few others do?!?! I like my 4 gallon unit installed 15 months ago. It reduces the number of times the fresh water pump has to cycle on and off. These are kinda like heat expansion tanks in a house’s closed loop heating system.
One would think my philosophy of adding an accumulator tank would improve my “luck” over time with my pumps. Go figure.
I DO have a strainer in-line immediately before the fresh water pump. So, I *think* I am doing everything right.