“Black water” characterizes this 22 mile man-made canal that was begun in the late 1700s. This creates a unique “mirror” surface for some great photography. One has to be careful to not use up all your film!

https://dismalswampwelcomecenter.com/boating/

https://usace.contentdm.oclc.org/utils/getfile/collection/p16021coll11/id/4518

This is an alternate route between NC’s Albermarle Sound and Norfolk VA. The “standard” Intracoastal Waterway route is faster and easier… usually a 1-day passage. But this Dismal Swamp route forces one to slow down and enjoy the unique view and sights along the way. Most take 2 days to transit the Dismal Swamp route.

There are two things that slow you down: the two locks are less accommodating to cruisers than most of us are accustomed to. You may have to wait 2 or more hours for a lock through, which is simply atypical. Our advice: Study the cruising guides carefully if you want to get your timing right. Then call them to see if you read it correctly!

The second thing that will slow you down is the sounds and vibrations of hitting submerged objects! There are “invisible” logs and things that will quickly convince you, “We are in no rush.” Even when the depth is perfectly adequate, “mysterious things” below this black water will hit your running gear.

The waters are much shallower (5-6 feet is common) than the ICW main route.

As we got closer, it looked as though a way around this obstacle was possible. We may have damaged one of the two props on our bow thruster as we worked our way through this mess. We’ll figure that out later. Below is a video of Shelly helping to direct me.

All in all, it was a nice day to be cruising and exploring again after being tied up for so long.

Any eastern seaboard cruiser worth his salt needs to be able to say, “Oh Yes, I have transited the Dismal Swamp!” So now we can say we have. Tonight, we are tied up at the very northern end of the man-made canal. This is known as Deep Creek VA.

So, yes, there was a sign along the way that let us know when we crossed over from NC to VA.

Lots of Great Looper friends say this was their ‘most favorite passage on their Great Loop’. Honestly, that is not how we will remember or ever describe it! Just sayin’

But we are 98% done, and can check this adventure off our to-do list!

There is only room for two boats there, and we lucked out, with just enough room to tie up. FYI: This spot is walking distance to a Food Lion grocery and several restaurants. We just stayed aboard as we were too tired to venture out. It was an 8-hour day underway as it turns out. Very slow going for most of the 37.6 miles from Camden NC to Deep Creek VA.

I’ve never been to a Waffle House before, and there is one very close by. Rumor has it, they have a very good corned beef hash. (Don’t tell my wife or cardiologist about this post.) I may get up early to check it out. North-bounders like us can lock through around 9:00am here at Deep Creek Bridge & Lock. South-bounders should be ready at 8:30am sharp.

It is supposed to be hot tomorrow (90+°F). Hopefully the pool is open at Tidewater Marina in Portsmouth VA!

Happy Labor Day everyone!