New Lewmar V3 Windlass

Click below for a video.

Lewmar’s 003 Gypsy seems to be much smoother than the 002 Gypsy we had before with our 3/8” chain. The V3 is normally spec’d for 40-50 foot vessels, so this represents an upgrade for our 39 footer. The 22 year old Lewmar “Concept” windless seemed tired and underpowered. So when it failed we wanted to get the next size up.

The most important thing to note is that the V3 “fits” in the anchor locker where the old one was. The V3 is about 1” longer. No modifications were needed to make it fit, except as noted below.

The old… begging to be replaced! ((Motor only: Lewmar Model number: 60000189))

New next to old. The 4 (8mm) bolt holes match up with new and old. The hole for the shaft itself needed to be enlarged about 3/8”. No modification for the hole where the chain goes thru the deck was needed. So, this was mostly a good match, old to new.

The wiring was identical. So, I did not replace any of the switches, relays, wiring, or anything electrical. I simply hooked up the new unit the same way as the old one was wired in.

Newly installed V3 electric motor and gear box mounted under the deck, and wired up just as the old one was.

The biggest challenge I wanted to fix was the elongated mounting holes (below) and to counter the torque / rotational forces that caused them.

This very soft, weak, Balsa Core sandwiched between 1/8” fiberglass decking is inadequate, strength-wize, to support a cleat or a windlass.

I did use some fiberglass “filler” epoxy to fill the oversized holes, but I still questioned the strength, especially considering the vertical shaft hole in the middle still had to be trimmed larger… reducing the material between the center shaft hole and the four mounting holes (which are only 3-1/2” apart). “***There is too much torque on this windlass system to resist re-elongating these four mounting holes thru the balsa core deck.***”

Thanks to my friend George Menezes for his advice on fiberglass repair & construction.

1/8” thick, 1-1/2” angle aluminum stock was used to fashion a custom “Torque Bar” which would be mounted to the aft two mounting bolts beneath the deck. It would ensure both: the windlass would not be pulled up thru the deck, AND, more likely, it would increase the rotational mechanical advantage from 3-1/2” on this deck construction to 15” apart. Basically, it makes it impossible for this new windlass to rotate in-place.

This pic shows the new windlass’s backing plate with the “Torque Bar” both of which will be backing the windlass from beneath the deck. The torque bar will be bolted at its ends so it prevents any rotation of the windlass in its mounted position on-deck.

This shows how the backing plate AND the custom torque bar are combining to back the windlass under the deck. (Starboard side).

This picture of the windlass shaft coming down thru the deck was taken a couple days ago, before the electric motor and gearbox was installed. It may help to show you what I am trying to accomplish more clearly. (The hole at the top of the pic is where the chain / rode comes down thru the deck.). Aft is towards the bottom of this pic.

Several inches out from the windlass, the torque bar is also bolted (on both ends) thru the deck. “There’s no way that windlass is going to rotate now!”

The blue arrows show the bolts that go thru the deck and thru the “torque bar” below, essentially making it impossible for the windlass to rotate in its mounted position over time. Larger washers may be changed out on these bolts, and a new Mantus S2 Swivel will soon replace the shackle shown above.

Of course, working in tight spaces in this anchor locker made the whole project very challenging. The torque bar only made that part of this more difficult. However, my confidence in this new system makes the extra effort worth it!

Lewmar model V3 with 003 Gypsy (3/8” chain, 5/8” laid rope, or 3/4” 8-plait rope. 2248 pounds pull, 85 amps @ 12 VDC, (1000 watts). For 40-50 foot boats. Defender part # 013385 2000 Mainship 390.

Rocna 25kg – 55 pound Vulcan (anchor)

Rode: 200 feet of 3/8” G4 chain + 250 feet of 5/8” nylon laid rope.

https://shellerina.com/2020/09/19/new-ground-tackle-system-is-deployed/

https://shellerina.com/2020/09/21/splicing-8-plait/ (snubber article)

The windlass should be “baby-ed” on your boat. Use a “snubber” as shown in the link above, to take the strain off the windlass when at anchor in any moderate wind or current.

Never use the windlass to “pull” your boat up to the anchor against a wind or current. Use the main engine(s) to position the bow above the anchor so the windlass only has the weight of the rode and the anchor-in-mud to lift.

Windlasses are expensive and they are a pain in the arse to repair or replace. So, Baby yours!