South Cumberland Is GA.

We are the 15th cruiser to anchor in here tonight. Many of us have insurance that won’t allow us south of this island until November 1.

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Day off tomorrow!

64.22 miles for today… we went 2 hours longer than originally planned to give ourselves a day off tomorrow.

Friday: All the way to our Slip C-103 at Port 32 Ortega Landing, Jacksonville.

Ladys Island Marina

Dockmaster Kimberly Thomas

This Beaufort SC marina is on Factory Creek (which is also a well protected anchorage IMO) can take your reservation using Dockwa.com. However, I suggest you call Kimberly at their main telephone number and make the reservation in-person. She is a sweetheart and will make you feel like YOU are their most important customer ever!

Of course, she will say, “While I am helping YOU, you ARE my most important customer.”

They have a courtesy vehicle available for short hops to local businesses; it is included in your dockage. The second-best hardware store on the east coast and several grocery stores are all within a mile. (Some fit cruisers may opt to walk it or take one of the bikes.)

Across the way, in-town Beaufort, are large public docks (free for the day/evening) with lots of great dining choices and shops.

The famous and popular “Gene’s Anchorage” is just south of town. Any chart will show you how to safely enter from the south.

When we plan to come to Beaufort for a few days, we mix it up with a free dock stop or two, some anchoring out, and always a visit with Kimberly at Ladys Island Marina to do laundry, shower up, and re-provision. We usually have our mail and packages forwarded here as well. This marina also has a discounted WEEKLY rate!

There is a wonderful write-up about Kimbery and her husband’s cruising experiences in the Oct 2024 marina newsletter.

https://ladysislandmarina.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/October-newsletter.pdf

Beaufort SC (BEE-u-fert) mm 536.3 today

48 miles from Church Creek (ICW mm 488.2), noon to 5:30pm… to ensure some tide beneath our keel and prop through some skinny water.

Ours were the only ripples on Coosaw River today! Great cruising weather again.
Our new Victron 3000 VA inverter / charger seems to suck more overhead away from the solar re-charging system than the smaller 2000 Xantrax inverter / charger did. SO, today’s experiment was simply turn off the inverter when it was not needed. Preliminary results are very promising!

Solar had no problems bringing the bank of two Battleborn GC3 LiFePO4 back up to the max.

Beaufort SC is a great town; Ladys Island Marina is a great vendor. We have some mail waiting here for us from St Brendon’s Isle mail forwarding service.

Float Plan to JAX

We winter in the St Johns River in FL. We are getting close! We have a car waiting, and our slip, dentists, physicians, and scheduled maintenance.

Today we completed a 53 mile trek to Church Creek (aka New Cut Landing) mm 488.2, longer than we like. Here is our float plan for the finish of our trip to Canada that started on April 1.

Sat Oct 26 Ladys Is Marina mm 563.3 (48 mile day tomorrow).

Sun Oct 27 Bull Creek mm 565 (28.7 mile day)

Monday Oct 28 Delegal Marina + visit Marlyse & Phil Libby mm 601 (36 miles)

Tuesday Oct 29 Dupline River mm 649 (48 miles)

Wednesday Oct 30 Cumberland Island South mm 711 (62 miles). “Rubber Day”as our yacht insurance won’t cover us south of this island until Nov 1. We can also split the 62 miles by staying in north Cumberland THEN move to south Cumberland Island… breaking up that 62 mile day!

Friday November 1 Sisters Creek FL mm 740 (29 miles)

Saturday November 2 Port 32 Ortega Landing Marina mm 740+25=765 (25 miles), and then Clay County.

We plan to vote in-person on November 5. Then Shelly flies to BOS on Nov 6 to be with family for brother Andre’s “Celebration of Life”.

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Wacca Wache Anchorage

ICW mm 383.6

We stayed at Cricket Cove Marina in North Myrtle Beach NC last night. Zack from Jimmy’s Marine came to our slip to get the generator running again.

Good vendor.

Wacca Wache Marina has $3.15 diesel fuel. We’ll fill up tomorrow at the cheapest cost per gallon in all of 2024, less than half what we paid per gallon in Canada!

$0.40 per foot

Dockage 40 cents a foot! 30A shore power included. Very protected area.

ICW mm 157.5 Hobucken NC (close to nothing!)

It was COLD last night. We burned diesel fuel with our generator to stay warm. Plus it got windy this a.m.

SO, Tying up here at MAYO was the right move. Plus we got some seafood + hardware. Great prices.

Barge goin’ by

Nice to finally be underway again!

Anchored. Goose Creek aka Eastham Creek ICW mm 153.7 (611 miles to go to JAX, Port 32 Ortega Landing Marina)

5 days in Belhaven were “nice” but being disabled is never a good feeling.

“Community” means we all depend on each other for help. None of us can go it alone. We helped local businesses; they helped us. We like Belhaven (and Oriental a lot… (NC)).

But, it is nice to be underway on our own power again.

Nadine?

Invest 94L is a tropical depression in the Atlantic which is being “investigated”. Thus the designation “invest”.

It has a better than 50/50 chance of developing into a named storm, which would be called Nadine. “Everyone” is watching!

Addendum: Tuesday

Seems to be slightly less of a threat tonight.

ADDENDUM Wed night

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Addendum Oct 18 Fri

Looks like the storm that *might* have been named Nadine is petering out.

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Dinner with fellow Loopers – Spoon River – Belhaven

We met several new friends and a long time friend at Spoon River, Belhaven NC – ICW mm 136.

Shelly and Diana [Ambassador Extraordinaire for all transient cruisers in Belhaven] at Spoon River.
Diana gifted all three of our boats with flowers! How thoughtful is that?!

Billy & Sara of Coconuts

Greg & Lisa of Beach Breeze

and “local” Diana joined us all tonight for a great dinner together. ((Packed house even on a Monday night! Reservations recommended.))

Shelly, Diana, Greg, Billy, Lisa, Sara, Ray (l-r) at our Spoon River table.

Do not be bashful to call (former single-handed cruiser) Diana for a ride or any local favors you might need. She helped us with our CAT parts delivery needs today.

Related past posts:

https://shellerina.com/2023/07/22/belhaven-nc-cruisers-ambassador-port-officer/

https://shellerina.com/2023/07/21/belhavens-most-famous-dinner-spot/

Addendum October 31, 2025

Patty & Diana – together again during Galene’s weather stay in Belhaven!

Species ID…

I snagged this pic from the Internet. I think it was purposefully ambiguous in an attempt to be humorous.

So, here is the rest of the story:

Round snout is the Alligator.

Crocks have the pointier snout, are usually larger and more aggressive.

To date, we have not seen either. But the southern St Johns River, we hear, will certainly be a place to see one or both of these species.

Reportedly, there are occasional sightings in the northern St Johns River and Ortega River where we winter.

FMI:

https://seaworld.org/animals/facts/reptiles/crocodiles-and-alligators/

Stuck in Belhaven for a few days…

We experienced a bad electrical smell after securing on the hook in the southern end of the Alligator River. We had successfully transited the Albermarle Sound and the Alligator River in great weather conditions… without a problem until we STOPPED and dropped the hook?!?!

The smart shunt indicated that there was 76 Amps of draw from the main lead acid bank.

The failed component was this relay in the CAT’s electrical box atop the rear part of the engine.
Fortunately, I had a spare relay on the boat!

Unfortunately, the engine would still not start. The mechanics here at River Forest Marina suspect a failed 130 amp circuit breaker in the same circuit. The starter may also be faulty as one thing I tried was to jump the starter solenoid with a wrench, and the starter turned, but the Bendix Gear did not engage the engine’s flywheel.

UPDATED paragraph:

The starter is less than a year old, so it was covered by CAT’s warrantee. No cash had to be exchanged for a new starter. CAT accepted the 11 month starter giving full credit…

Everyone here at River Forest Marina has been great with their help. TowBoat US took care of the tow through the Alligator-Pungo Canal to get me here.

This is one of our favorite towns on the Loop and ICW. So, we could be holed up in worst places!

The third ownership transition in as many years just took place this month here. More details on that will soon follow!

Search our blog for:

Grand Manor Marina

River Forest Marina

Belhaven NC

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ADDENDUM Wed Oct 16

130A Circuit Breaker showed up this morning
Scott finishes up the job. You can see the residue (and imagine the smell) of charred electric components on the cover on the top of the electrical box.

Our engine starts again!

Bill was reasonable.

This electrical box is fortunately easy to get to, right on top of the CAT 3126.
Scott Cutler, our mechanic and Axsom Smith III, general manager just hauled out this baby with twin Volvo Penta IPS drives. The port side one doesn’t look as good as this starboard one. Thus the haul out this morning.
This yard just closed on the purchase of Grand Manor Marina a week ago; the name is changing back to River Forest Marina. The boat yard is less than a mile from the marina. It is a family owned operation.

This family owned the marina and mansion years ago before Henry Boyd and the other local business people.

Belhaven: Oct 11,12,13,14,15

Today:

We crossed Pamlico River and anchored at Goose Creek aka Eastham Creek anchorage ICW mm 153.5.

611 sm to go … to Ortega Landing.

Our mechanic, Scott Cutler & Shelly
B-Dock at River Forest. ((If you need a pump-out, ask for A-Dock! They can do it at the slip.))

Everything is good here except it can be a bit “rolly” depending upon the wind.

The Grand Manor mansion on premises is a popular wedding venue, for people who get married a lot. There were two weddings during our tenure this week.

Celebrating our 36th anniversary at Coinjock Marina NC – ICW mm 50.0000000

36 years of wedded bliss!

Daily: “Thanks for being my wife again today!”

Coinjock is famous for their prime rib and crab bisque (we had some bisque at lunchtime). But our favorite cut of steak is filet mignon. Somehow they know how to do both!
Blue cheese dressing on the side.
Coinjock
From here: Albermarle Sound crossing and Alligator River.

445 statute miles to go for Ortega Landing – Fairfax / JAX FL in about 23 days. (Avg: 20 miles per day.)

Hurricane Milton is likely to mess up the west coast of FL from Tampa south to Ft. Meyers. Flooding from rainwater is expected in the St Johns River, our hailing port. With a narrow Mayport Inlet being the only place to drain, the water levels at our winter “home” marina will likely take weeks to recede. We are still 3+ weeks from there. We are safe and feel in control of things. Many friends of ours are less fortunate.

Shellerina is safe on the green dot at the top of this pic.
No other threats to Shellerina making us nervous other than flooding in the St Johns River from Hurricane Milton. Leslie and Kirk are out ot the picture.

Unfortunately, others will not be as fortunate.

This place vacated quickly this morning; it was near capacity last night. It is a common place to stay for one night IF weather conditions are good. Otherwise folks stay and wait for conditions to improve. (Lots of open water north and south of here.)
A good morning to cross Albermarle Sound!
ICW mile marker nearby..,
Shaping up to be a good day to cross Albermarle Sound
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Perfect day for crossing the Albermarle. Still, our prayers are with friends on the west coast of Florida today.
Sweet Success. Transited both Albermarle Sound and the whole of Alligator River in one day. 56 miles +/- 6 hours. Long day. This is normally a two-day journey.

Another Horribly Rough Day on the Chesapeake … and Milton in the Gulf

Leaving Indian Creek, Kilmarnock VA this morning.

I count 13 freighters anchored out in the lower Chesapeake.
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None are making way at the moment
Steve & Sally aboard Favors continue to keep us company and are enjoying this sea state with us!

Departed 8:45a.m. Arrived 3:30pm. 54.8 sm on the day. 3400 miles for the season, so far. 506 miles left to go to Ortega Landing in JAX. Average about 18 miles per day. Easy pace.

While there ARE some areas of open water (e.g. Albermarle Sound) between here and Jacksonville, there is also a lot more protection from stormy weather than the states we just traversed from NY to Norfolk. So, we should be less constrained by weather for most of the month ahead.
Fairly remarkable 60 second video of tonight’s view off the stern.
Here is the pic that Shelly captured soon after!

Atlantic storms (Kirk&Leslie) appear to be non-issues. But there may be something cookin’ on the Gulf of Mexico.

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Tropical Storm Milton

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Addendum: Sat Oct 5…

Congratulations to Favors who had a third day in a row of transiting well over 50 miles per day. From Phoebus anchorage (N of Norfolk VA) with us Friday night, they continued over 60 sm to make Coinjock NC. (That marina is known for its prime rib BTW.)

Long Day Today… another tomorrow.

Indian Creek – Kilmarnock VA from Solomons Is MD.

This is one of our favorite anchorages.

Perfect cruising conditions today. Flat, sunny… just wonderful. So we put on some miles to get closer to the ICW’s weather protection. We’ll be *close* to Norfolk tomorrow night (Phoebus anchorage, another 55 sm).

Norfolk is at ICW mm Zero.

The St John’s River in FL, where we hope to be on Nov 1, is at ICW mm 740.

Friday is a definite GO!

55 sm to Phoebus anchorage north of Norfolk.

Saturday is also looking good to make AYB Atlantic Yacht Basin ICW mm 12.2… easy to re-provision there, and cheap fuel: $3.05 tax incl if 200 gallons.

Service at Zimmermans – Solomon Is MD

I observed sea water coming into the aft bilge when the generator was running, and to a lesser extent when the generator was not running.

Hose failure due to chafe / vibration. (Seawater cooling)

Zimmerman Marine fit me into their schedule today and this is what they found.

End result is we lost only 1 travel day. But this was a critical repair which I needed to get fixed. The generator in this boat is very difficult to get to (for me). So hiring out this job was my choice to “git ‘er done!”

We are very pleased with the service and results here at Zimmerman Marine, Solomans Is MD

Gregory also installed a second (larger) hose on the outside of the 5/8” business hose to shield it from the chafing.

Yard Manager, Ryan Ducey was “on it” calling me first thing this morning; I filled out the online service request last night after hours. Joanna was great too. “All good!”

Highly recommended. Several locations in mid-Atlantic states.

This hose was not that old. It was replaced in Aug 2022 when the heat exchanger was re-conditioned. The sea water pump was new in May 2021 before we started our Great Loop circuit. So this was not a neglected system.

Just goes to show: “Stay ahead on maintenance tasks!”

Busy few days!

Cape May NJ to Delaware City Marina. 9/26/2024 arr D City
The wind was with us heading north on Delaware Bay. Here you can see an anomaly with upper winds aloft going in the opposite direction: south!

We met Steve and Sally in Atlantic City. We all were waiting for a nice weather window on the outside to make Cape May. We ultimately chose the NJ ICW inside route, which worked out just fine!

Favors

Steve & Sally aboard Favors have been buddy boats with us since Atlantic City, shown here on the Chesapeake.

Delaware City to Warton’s Creek. Arr W creek Sat 9/28/2024
Warton’s Creek to Annapolis arr 9/29/2024 Sunday.
Spirit of Baltimore and another sailboat passed us today.

Anchoring in Soloman’s Island MD Monday night. Arr Mon 9/30/2024
There are some interesting things happening in the Atlantic.

Hurricane Helene messed up some friends and their boats along the Florida panhandle aka the “Big Bend” and north into western No Carolina.

121 deaths, hundreds missing, 92 SAR teams. Western NC. (Not counting FL pan handle and GA. )

We are pressing on to make Norfolk VA, mile marker ZERO on the Atlantic ICW (110 miles to go). We will have more protection from storms once we are inside there. The month of October will be spent traversing to Cumberland Island GA, then St Johns River (mm 740), close to our winter “home” on the Ortega River. The National Weather Service does not allow hurricanes in FL after November 1. So our yacht insurance says it is OK to be in FL after that.

FL pan handle + GA + western SC took a beating from Helene.

Good supper tonight – Solomons.

On the hook Solomons.