Day 3 at Cumberland Is. It has become the best anchorage anywhere for Trick-or-Treating as 15-20 boats are anchored here waiting for November 1, when our yacht insurance allows us to go south of Cumberland Island. (This because NOAA and the National Weather Service does not allow hurricanes to happen south of here after November 1.)
Above: the fog is starting to lift. We were totally fogged in with 50-100 feet of visibility when we got up this morning. But it is starting to clear as you can see.
We are here for a few days for work meetings and to await our yacht insurance’s requirements to NOT be south of here from June 30 and November 1 (hurricane season). We are just a few hours away from Port 32 Ortega Landing in Jacksonville where we will be tied up through the holidays.
The northernmost point of Cumberland Island. ICW mm 690.5We went 39 miles crossing St Simons Sound, Jekyll River, St Andrews Sound, and all the waters inside of Cumberland Island… a 5 hour passage. Sometimes bucking the current, and other times being helped by it. Left: our position near the NOAA current station. Right: our speed over ground SOG with the help of that current push.
.
Naval Submarine Base Kings Bay. Many NATO country’s submarines are serviced here inside of Cumberland Island. Today we saw this armed patrol boat guarding a sub in-port.
In previous visits we saw a submarine underway here with LOTS of escorts and VHF radio traffic keeping ICW pleasure boats at a distance.
We found over a dozen other transient cruisers like us already anchored here as we pulled in just after 2:00pm. Some Cats, some sailboats, some power boats. All were enjoying this fine anchorage with plenty of room for all. We went in deep to the north end called Greystone. Others were south known as Dungeness. There is some wake from ferries that make us prefer the more northern area.
Only enter this anchorage from the south giving heed to all the warning signs of the shoals.
I lived in Lewiston Maine through 7 of my elementary school years. I have many friends there. A new dawn for that changed city this morning, as news of the body of the mentally disturbed killer was found last night less than a mile from where his car was found.
Click above to see a brief time lapse of a freighter leaving this port! Two ships passing in the night, right next to us. 2.5 hours underway today. A large timber / log hit our boat today and remained lodged against or bow. This is our second time staying here. We did not have a problem with flotsam last time.
Click above to see the video of the current holding a log on our bow.
.
Our favorite server “Jam” across River St from the town dock at the Cotton Exchange Tavern.
The next 45 miles on the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) is characterized by shallow shoaling waters. We have transited this passage 3 times without a problem. Our strategy is ensure we have some tide water beneath us. Sunday we pulled into Steamboat Creek because our high tide window was too early in the day for us to transit these upcoming waters.
With work Zoom meetings scheduled on Monday and Tuesday, we decided to stay anchored here until an hour or two before high tide on Wednesday. Then weigh anchor to pass through the shallow areas.
This shows about 40 hours of movement around our anchor as tide and wind change. For Wednesday: Doable with some tide beneath us.
Also, doable with some tide.
We successfully passed through this area once. But we have since been taking an alternative route through St Helena Sound SC south of Fenwick Island. The great port of Beaufort SC comes up next for us. We’ll re-provision and prepare for a visit with friends in Savannah GA. That puts us within a week or so of Jacksonville for November and December.
Our yacht insurance prohibits us from being south of Cumberland Island GA from June 30 to November 1. That’s the controlling date at this stage on this seasonal trip south.
Our month of January is tentatively going to be spent exploring the St Johns River south of Jacksonville.
Changes in the wind, weather, and tidal current are being monitored. There is plenty of water on the sides as we swing.
A cat sailboat anchored and left 30 minutes later. We don’t know why. A mono-hull sailboat just dropped the hook on the same area about 100 yards north of us.
There are many anchorage choices near here, but tidal current is likely to be a factor in all of them. Good ground tackle is important.
We pulled in here expecting rain, as seen on radar APPS. But nothing materialized. [yet]Here is a plot a few hours later.
One of two town docks. mm 403“Destiny” of Songbird Nursery grows all her own flowers and keeps this town lookin’ great! Don’t be afraid of distracting her from her primary flower-tending duties. You’ll be rewarded with an enchanting conversation with this BEST public relations ambassador that this town has! ...Two public docks (that you can bring the main boat up to, not just dinghies) put you right in the thick of things downtown.
We had dinner at The Corner Tavern, on the water, great food and service. Get their WiFi password so that you can connect out on anchor when you are done! We met these folks from MA and had some great conversations at Corner Tavern… a happening new place on the main drag and waterfront.
New friends: Pauline & Bill Calhoun, Laura & Peter Driscoll, of Brant Rock MA.
They close downtown to all vehicular traffic for this event… next weekend. Boats will be all over the place downtown, as described to us by Destiny.
Thanks to Captain Gene of Galene for recommending this port!
The routine is pull into one of the open spots on the town dock(S), go ashore for the day, have a meal, (get the WiFi password), then push off and anchor a bit off the town’s waterfront. Use the WiFi from the anchorage. Rinse. Repeat!
Tons of stuff within walking distance.
Don’t be stayin’ overnight on these town docks… this is the only port we’ve seen with signs telling us what the FINE is for that. I’ll just say the number has four figures in it. So, it is not worth taking a chance. IMO
The guys at Wacca Wache caught our lines and showed off their new docks! (ICW mm 383)
Of course we always show up on EMPTY when we come thru the Waccamaw River (between Georgetown and Myrtle Beach SC) cuz we know these guys will have the freshest diesel fuel at the best price.
“We knew Shellerina was comin’ so we dropped our prices again!”The onsite restaurant is still doing well.
Extremely well protected hurricane hole. .Valet too..Nice place. Clean facilities. No swimming! But there are lots of turtles to feed!They’ll swim right up to your transom. Crackers work, or your old veggies.
Our new friends aboard Blontourage head out for their home in Southport NC… see the video below:
We took a day off yesterday. We stayed a second day in the state park marina at Carolina Beach. It was our 35th wedding anniversary, we were tired. It was the right thing to do.
This decision also meant we did not have to leave this marina before sunrise on Sunday because of the tide. Departing Monday meant we could leave at 7:35am instead of an hour earlier. Stats to follow in a separate post.
Our intended destination was the free wall known as “Barefoot Landing” in Myrtle Beach SC, a longer day than our norm. 57 statute miles. But we were well rested and got an early start.
So, off we were early this morning. It was a great cruising day by all measures. Wind, temps, sea state, current helping us out… it was a great trip.
We arrived at Barefoot Landing before a 3:00pm business call I had.
However, we found a LOT of newly posted signs at Barefoot Landing saying that only Day Docking was allowed. (No evening docking or overnighting).
Several new signs like this have been posted since or July visit.
Plan B became a 2-hour continuation to Osprey Marina, mm 373.
The end result was a total mileage for the day of 76.65 GPS measured miles, surpassing our previous record of 72.4 in April 2022 when we were still Looping across the Albermarle Sound.
Fortunately, the welcoming committee was waiting for us at Slip C16 at Osprey Marina.
Captain Jim Middleton generously helped us dock the boat at Osprey Marina after hours. They too were late comers on C-Dock this evening. He and his Admiral Mary would not let me say “No” to their offer of a dock-tail. They cruise out of Southport NC. ((Yes, they know Robert and Kay Creech!))Early morn at Osprey. Photo by Mary Middleton of Blondtorage (to the left of Shellerina.)
Approaching tonight’s anchorage: Mile Hammock ICW mm 244.5We have been corresponding with Alan and Susan of Ablelene for a couple days. Many “Loopers” and cruisers have a NEBO alliance aboard that is VERY helpful for the social networking part of this lifestyle. They “found us”on Nebo as they were passing yesterday’s anchorage. So, we knew each other’s plans to be here tonight. Their boat position appears along with ours on NEBO’s screen on our smart phones. There are two other boats anchored here tonight, (but they don’t have NEBO, so they don’t show up here.)Not bad!
This is our third time anchoring here. It is a well-positioned anchorage for those traversing the ICW.